Source to Sea: Three journeys down the Syr Darya

The Syr Darya is Central Asia’s secret river. More than 2,200 kms in length and travelling through four countries – Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and Kazakhstan – it flows from its source in the Tien Shan Mountains all the way to what remains of the Aral Sea.

In September, together with Dela Arba Travel from Almaty, I will be starting the first of three expeditions down the river, the first of their kind. Starting at the source we will travel down the river – known as the Naryn at this point – to the Kyrgyz-Uzbek border, before crossing into the Ferghana Valley. From here we will cross briefly into Tajikistan to visit Khojand and the site of Alexandria Eschate, the city built by Alexander the Great on the shores of the river. From there we will return to Uzbekistan to visit Tashkent and Aidarkul Lake. Along the route we will visit some of the ancient cities and archaeological sites, such as Akhsikent and Sharukhiya. Full details can be found here:

Two further journeys along the river will take place in spring 2027. Expedition 2 will follow the river from the Uzbek border to the remarkable city of Turkestan, location of the superb Khoja Ahmed Yassawi Mausoleum built on the orders of Timur (Tamerlane) at the end of the 14thC. Expedition 3 will follow the river from Turkestan through the Kyzyl Kum desert to the Aral Sea. Along the route we will explore some of the remarkable ‘lost’ cities that can be found deep in the desert.

If you are interested in joining any of these three expeditions, please get in touch. There are still a couple of places on Expedition 1, which leaves on 15 September from Almaty in Kazakhstan. More places are available on the two other expeditions.

Khoja Ahmed Yassawi Mausoleum, Turkestan

Across the Aral ’25: Majestic ruins of Sauran

The walls of Sauran
Arriving at night

After a hard day’s driving from Almaty towards the Aral Sea, we arrived after dark at the walls of the abandoned city of Sauran, 70 kms north of Turkistan. This remarkable site was once the largest city on Kazakh territory, but now only majestic ruins remain. The city fell victim to the collapse of the Silk Road trade following the opening up of sea routes from Europe to the East in the seventeenth century.

Sauran survived the Mongol onslaught even though nearby Otrar was completely destroyed for failing to negotiate a deal with Genghis Khan.

The Sauran ruins stretch for several miles,  but the main town walls are almost complete, together with a reconstructed main entrance.

Wandering across this massive site you come across countless fragments of fired blue tiles and shards of pottery. One excavated spot shows just how impressive it once was.

We camped beneath the walls and left early the next  morning to continue our journey, past Kyzylorda towards the Aral.

Official launch of Travellers in the Great Steppe

I can confirm that the official launch of my new book, Travellers in the Great Steppe: From the Papal Envoys to the Russian Revolution, will take place on Wednesday 23rd September at 14.30. It will be a hybrid event, meaning that the launch will be broadcast live from the Royal Geographical Society in London, but members of the public will not be able to attend in person, although they will have full access via the internet. If you would like to register for the launch please click this Zoom link. I will outline some of the fascinating stories contained in the book and there will also be words from H E Erlan Idrissov, Ambassador of Kazakhstan, Thomas Atkinson descendant Steve Brown and from a speaker from the RGS.

Published on 23rd September